2005: One of the main problems I was
having with the old engine was its ability
to suck up the slightest splash into the air
intake. The mechanical fan threw water
perfectly up into it. I didn't bother to
drain the cylinders then, I just cranked
until the engine started. I am a little more
protective of the new engine, so I decided
to do it right, and build a snorkel.
The first thing I did
was source a flexible tubing that was also
heat resistant. I found some in the Aircraft
Spruce catalog, which is used for aircraft
ducting. I could get 4.5" ducting that was
good to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. It was
expensive though, at $8 a foot.
The plan was to modify my truck
old intake so that the ducting could be attached to it
with a large hose clamp. I bent a ring of sheet metal
and TIG welded it to the intake. The metal of the intake
was about .020" thick, so welded it required a fine
touch and alot of patients. The result worked VERY well,
and looked pretty good if you ask me.
Notice the rubber on the inside
of the hose clamp. I had to painstakingly epoxy a sliced
rubber tube to the clamp so that it wouldn't bite into
the relatively soft ducting, which doesn't have the best
Since the jeep has a one-piece front end that hinges
up like a giant hood, the common snorkel design of an exit through the
fender would not work here. After much thought, I decided that going though
the firewall was the best choice. I TIG welded an aluminum adaptor that
would bolt to the firewall and have round rings on each side that the
ducting could mount to, very similar to the intake ring.
A picture of me torch
cutting a round hole for the giant aluminum flange.
A slightly block photo of the flange in place. I
then RTVed and screwed it to the firewall. You can
see the semicircle I had to cut out of the battery
tray to allow the ducting to come straight out.
A movie of fitting the flange
in. (Hey I got it, why not use it....)
Working on the
The final product forward of
For the rear, the hose was
simply run along the bottom edge of the passenger
compartment, next to the seat and up the roll bar. I
had to hack a big chunk out of the passenger seat
mount, but eventually got it to fit well. I use PVC
for the straight parts: up the roll bar and along
the floorboard. For temporary use, I added 2 90
degree turns to the top of the PVC so that water
wouldn't simply run down it.
I found a major leak in the
system the first time out though, and the engine
took a big gulp of water here.
The air cleaner I use (K&N)
was slightly taller than the stock one, so that when
the top of the intake was bolted down, it left a
slight gap around the rim. That problem was solve
when I epoxied a thin piece of rubber all around the